Sponsors
Menu
   
      About SDMoto      Gallery

How To: Do an oil change on your sportbike.

SDMoto - San Diego Sport Bike Motorcycle Forum Group/How To: Do an oil change on your sportbike. => Alright, so the purpose of this thread is to instruct you how to do an oil change on your sport bike or any other motorcycle or vehicle really. In

Pages: [1]
  Print  
Author Topic: How To: Do an oil change on your sportbike.  (Read 1253 times)
Mint
Site Admin
600cc
*****
Posts: 242



View Profile Email
« on: March 20, 2011, 05:33:03 PM »

Alright, so the purpose of this thread is to instruct you how to do an oil change on your sport bike or any other motorcycle or vehicle really.

In this thread we will specifically be doing an oil change on a Honda CBR 600RR but the process is the same for a Yamaha R6 or R1, Suzuki GSXR, Kawasaki Ninja, Triumph 675 or any sport bike, the only difference is that removing your fairings might be different and the location of your drain bolt and oil filter might be a little different.

First thing you should do is collect the things you'll need.
This includes but is not limited to:
-Replacement Oil (about 3-4 Quarts, check your bikes documentation for recommended weight and viscosity information)
-Replacement Filter (it is model specific, Usually stores like Cycle Gear have books that can make sure you get the right size oil filter)
-Oil drainage pan
-A rear stand (may not be necessary but will be helpful)
-A set of proper sockets and wrenches (you probably wont need anything bigger than a 18mm socket or 3/4inch socket to do an oil change)
-Screw driver
-Some latex gloves and some old rags.

Next, you'll want to identifiy the location of the oil pan and filter - then remove any fairings in the way.
On my bike this is illustrated in the picture below, you'll need to remove all the screws in the following locations to have decent access to the oil filter.


Its pretty obvious that removal of the fairings is necessary on the CBR 600RR because of the location of the oil filter, being behind the headers and between the left and right main fairings. In the picture below the little white arrow indicates the location of the oil filter (sorry its hard to see)




Drain the bike's oil via the oil pan bolt.
This is illustrated below, to do this you really don't need to remove any body work, but it'll likely make the next steps easier if you remove the body work prior.
Here is an image of what the oil pan looks like.


After your fairings are removed (note you dont have to remove all of them, just those necessary to make removal of the oil filter easier) you bike should look something like this.


Next you should loosen the oil drainage bolt. (Remember, counter-clockwise to loosen)
Make sure you have a oil drain pan under the bolt because oil will spill all over your garage without it.
Its also useful to location the oil filler port and remove the cap on it so that oil drains easier.


Now, you need to remove the oil filter.
This step can be slight pain in the ass if you don't have enough clearance for the proper tools or your hands. Some oil filters also have nifty wrench heads on the top so that removal can be done with a regular wrench. Like the picture below.


Note that if your current filter does not have this, you have 3 options.
-A oil filter wrench (you can usually rent these for free at Autozone or pepboys, just leave a deposit or your drivers license)
-Your hands (if you can fit your hands in there well enough and get a good grip, these can be removed by hand)
-Punching through the filter with a screw driver, since the filter will be thrown out anyway, you can also get a phillips head screw driver and hit it with a hammer, your screw driver will pierce through the filter and can then be used as a lever to remove the filter. Here is a picture of this technique.


Install a new filter
After you've drained all the oil from the pan, and filter. Its time to install the new one. Apply a thin layer of oil on the o-ring on the filter to help the seal and prevent leaks.

Thread the new filter into its proper location. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE FILTER. After the o-ring contacts the surface of the motor tighten it only 3/4 of a turn.

With the new filter installed, you're almost done! Now all you need to do is refill the oil.
Dont forget to re-install the oil drainage bolt! Also note, that some bikes recommend changing a washer between the bolt and the oil pan.

Here is a picture with my new filter installed.


Now, refill the oil by adding oil via a funnel into the proper oil filler port. Most sport bikes require almost 4 quarts. I recommend the following process.

1. Fill 3.25 Quarts
2. Close oil filler port, and start the motor for about 20 seconds. This circulates new oil in the motor.
3. Turn off the bike.
4. Check your oil level in the window. on the side of the bike, while the bike is straight upright (not on its kick stand) you may need a buddy to do this, dont drop your bike on yourself.
5. Add more oil if necessary and repeat steps 2-4 until proper level is reached.





Then congrats, you just did your own oil change! Not so bad was it?

Feel free to post any questions you may have.



Search Keywords:

Motorcycle oil change, sport bike oil change, how to change oil on sport bike. 600rr oil change, zx-6r oil change, yamaha R6 Oil change, Yamaha R1 Oil change, ZX-10R oil change, Hayabusa Oil change, 1000rr oil change, Ducati 848 1098 1198 oil change Triumph 675 Oil change. changing sportbike oil sportbike oil change. sport bike oil filter, motorcycle oil filter.


« Last Edit: March 20, 2011, 08:55:01 PM by Mint » Logged
JohnnyWithNoH
250cc
**
Posts: 63



View Profile Email
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2011, 06:00:19 PM »

wow nice, so that's your bike haha
nice job on the tutorial!
Logged
-Op-
President / Administrator
1000cc
*****
Posts: 397


shadowzflame@hotmail.com HawkOfTheShadow
View Profile
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2011, 08:23:09 PM »

good post. definently will help a lot of people understand how to do it themselves.

Just a few things to add from my experience:

Oil filter wrench, SUPER helpful. I use it on bikes, cars and it works greaaat! Bought it for $10 at Kragen.

Prior to installing the filter, I fill the filter with oil so when circulation begins, there is already oil being filter as well. I personally think its something to help the motor last longer, but I have no hard facts on this.

Also, I like Purolator PureOne Filters. Best filter media and most amount of it. Tests done have shown this.

Great writeup though!
Logged

2k5 Kawi Green Widow Maker
Odo reads ~8.8k miles. Ride 'Till I Die!

Mods:
Boz Bros Gild Slip-on
FE Kit
Zero Gravity Sport Touring Dark Smoke Windscreen
More to come!
Mint
Site Admin
600cc
*****
Posts: 242



View Profile Email
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2011, 08:49:06 PM »

Thanks for the kind words guys....Hopefully this week I'll be able to do a DIY on cleaning your chain, and later checking valve clearances.

Again if anyone has questions feel free to ask, I'm sure myself or someone can help out and answer.

Logged
wuzertheloser
1000cc
****
Posts: 437


wuzertheloser
View Profile Email
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2011, 10:30:00 AM »

good post. definently will help a lot of people understand how to do it themselves.

Just a few things to add from my experience:

Oil filter wrench, SUPER helpful. I use it on bikes, cars and it works greaaat! Bought it for $10 at Kragen.

Prior to installing the filter, I fill the filter with oil so when circulation begins, there is already oil being filter as well. I personally think its something to help the motor last longer, but I have no hard facts on this.

Also, I like Purolator PureOne Filters. Best filter media and most amount of it. Tests done have shown this.

Great writeup though!

Purolator's are nice.....my personal flavor is using the $2 Supertech filters at Walmart as they are made by Champion.....who makes Mobil1 oil filters  Grin

Plus....if I'm changing oil every 1500 - 2000 don't need a super expensive filter unless i plan on going multiple oil changes on one filter.
Logged

Attack life.....it's going to kill you anyways
wuzertheloser
1000cc
****
Posts: 437


wuzertheloser
View Profile Email
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2011, 10:33:20 AM »

and Aimen....you guys are so lucky with the oil window.....haha

Logged

Attack life.....it's going to kill you anyways
Mint
Site Admin
600cc
*****
Posts: 242



View Profile Email
« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2011, 10:57:58 AM »

and Aimen....you guys are so lucky with the oil window.....haha


You guys don't have a window? What about those little dip sticks to check the level?
Logged
wuzertheloser
1000cc
****
Posts: 437


wuzertheloser
View Profile Email
« Reply #7 on: March 21, 2011, 07:58:08 PM »

yep.....have those dipsticks....but a window is so much more convenient
Logged

Attack life.....it's going to kill you anyways
pikan
250cc
**
Posts: 55


View Profile
« Reply #8 on: March 21, 2011, 08:23:25 PM »

can you use the stick without a centerstand? (yes if oil level is lower when on kickstand)
Logged
-Op-
President / Administrator
1000cc
*****
Posts: 397


shadowzflame@hotmail.com HawkOfTheShadow
View Profile
« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2011, 01:09:18 AM »

I gots me a window too = )
Logged

2k5 Kawi Green Widow Maker
Odo reads ~8.8k miles. Ride 'Till I Die!

Mods:
Boz Bros Gild Slip-on
FE Kit
Zero Gravity Sport Touring Dark Smoke Windscreen
More to come!
Katia
50cc
*
Posts: 36



View Profile Email
« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2011, 09:35:16 AM »

nice. Looking forward to the valve adjustment diy.
Logged
wuzertheloser
1000cc
****
Posts: 437


wuzertheloser
View Profile Email
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2011, 01:49:57 PM »

nice. Looking forward to the valve adjustment diy.

checking valve clearances and adjusting valves are two different things. adjusting valves typically means replacing shims here and there. checking them to make sure they're in spec just requires a measurement tool and the specs to compare
Logged

Attack life.....it's going to kill you anyways
Katia
50cc
*
Posts: 36



View Profile Email
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2011, 12:36:14 AM »

nice. Looking forward to the valve adjustment diy.

checking valve clearances and adjusting valves are two different things. adjusting valves typically means replacing shims here and there. checking them to make sure they're in spec just requires a measurement tool and the specs to compare

I know, but if you check them and find out that they're out of spec, you'll have to adjust them no? Thats the part I'm interested in Smiley
Logged
wuzertheloser
1000cc
****
Posts: 437


wuzertheloser
View Profile Email
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2011, 07:25:44 AM »

haha....touche
Logged

Attack life.....it's going to kill you anyways
Pages: [1]
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by EzPortal